This morning was a little more relaxed. We slept until 7:30 and didn’t make it down to breakfast until 9AM. We were on our own today with nothing scheduled. Breakfast was in the dining room overlooking Lake Como and the surrounding hills. It was fantastic. Mom and I had our cups of tea. I am still wanting to try a cappuccino in the morning but always have to consider the repercussions. Perhaps soon.
Mom was very good and ate healthy…yogurt, granola, and a fruit filled croissant (hey…there was fruit!). Myself, I had scrambled eggs, bacon, mini donut, some German pastry and a chocolate filled croissant. Oh, and two grapes. They were delicious, but also with seeds, which I didn’t know until I had taken a handful. It wasn’t worth the hassle.
A quick trip back to the room and then off to the boat dock we went. We first stopped at Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista (St. John the Baptist), a tiny church built in the 1100’s. Inside the church are several frescos from the 14th century; one of them titled “The Adoration of the Three Wise Men”. It is very plain, made of stone with timber roof trusses. There is a stone fire pit at the back of the church which I can imagine would be used often to drive away the cold drafts that must blow in during the winter months.
After our brief visit to the church, we casually made our way to the boat dock. I purchased a new wallet and a scarf that will also serve as a belt. With the weight of my camera and my phone in my pants pockets, my pants keep hanging low. I’m still in search of a bag to carry my items in…something like a bohemian bag would suffice. Oddly enough, haven’t found one yet. My new wallet is blue and handmade here in Italy.
We finally get on the ferry boat to head over to Lenno, approximately a 30 minute ride (with several stops in between). Once at Lenno, we walked about a half mile to get on another boat to take us to the Villa del Balbianello. Originally constructed in the late 1700’s as the retirement house for Cardinal Durini. Prior to him purchasing the land, there was a Franciscan monastery located there since the 1300’s. The monastery was converted into a villa; as well as being added on to. The villa passed onto a nephew of the Cardinal’s but was eventually sold outside the family and has multiple owners. The last owner was Count Guido Monzino (businessman and explorer). He renovated it extensively but only ended up staying there about a year’s time. When he died, he left it to National Trust of Italy.
The tour took an hour through the villa. It was very ornate with chandeliers in almost every room. Secret stairwell connected the master bedroom to the guest room. The views of the lake from each room cannot be imagined. The lake beautiful; but with the trees and gardens framing that view; it makes it unforgettable.
After the short boat ride back to Lenno (10 euro), we had a late lunch over the water. Mom and I split a Margerhita pizza. The food was good, and there was so much to look at while we ate. There were swans and ducks in the water. Also seagulls that seemed to be fighting over each little bite of food they could find. We even saw a lake fish as the water is so clear.
We hopped on the ferry boat back to Varenna (several stops in between again). I think you could spend a month here and not even come close to visiting all the little villages on the lake. No, we did not see George Clooney. His summer home is further south from Varenna. But don’t think for a minute that we didn’t think about it.
After we walked back to the room to refresh ourselves before meeting up with our travel group again. We walked less than 1/2 a block to a little bar and filled up the back room with our group. Sara, our guide, gave us the skinny on tomorrow’s travels. Then we all had a chance to visit with each other briefly over drinks. At 7 we started toward our dinner destination. It was about 3/4 mile walk across Varenna to the house of Ferruccio Castelli. He is a world renowned chef who opens his home to Rick Steve’s tour groups that come to Varenna. The walls of his home are covered with framed awards and certificates he has earned during his career. With his wife, son, son’s girlfriend and a family friend, they served dinner to almost 30 people in their home (which really is an apartment).
It was a four course meal. The first course was thinly sliced smoked beef atop some greens and topped with thin slices of Parmesan cheese. Also some sort of salad that to me looked like a ball of peas and carrots in mashed potato. I know that’s not what it was, but that’s the only way to describe it.
Second course was a hearty dish made with buckwheat pasta, cubed potatoes, cheese and something else. Mom had the same thing for dinner last night, but this was so much better. Pasta made by hand; Ferruccio demonstrated for us between courses how he makes it.
Third course was lake fish. Filled with toasted bread crumbs and covered in vegetables. Served with it was polenta. I am not a fish fan. After this meal, I am still not a fish fan. But I promised I would be adventurous and try new foods. I ate half of my fish and all my polenta. I’m sure if you love fish, this was an amazing dish.
The fourth and final course was a tart. It tasted like figs, but it was actually apricot and peach filled! It was delicious! Served with grapes from “America”; they were purple grapes. Also figs from our host’s garden and some Italian plums.
As we worked on our dessert, our hosts offered us a choice of homemade limonchello, grappa, or a savory liquor he makes himself and exists only in his home. I opted for the limoncello which was so smooth and delicious!
We did have to pay for this dinner; Ferruccio isn’t rich. At a bargain price of 30 euro we were able to enjoy all this as well as start making new friends while we ate. It was an amazing experience and I am so glad I went. It was loud and laughter was heard often. And watching Ferruccio talk…so animated. He speaks almost no English, his wife and son were interpreting, as well as our guide.
Well fed, we all started walking back to the hotel. It’s mostly uphill back, so I’m hoping we burned off SOME calories from dinner. Mom and I stopped at the front desk to clear any charges we had incurred and made our way to our room. Did I mention that you have to put your room key into a “lock” in order to turn on the lights? What a great idea! You will always know where you key is!
Once again I am up past midnight. I must learn to get the done faster and earlier! Tomorrow we are off for the Italian Alps!
Buena Sera!
